Insets for Bowls tutorial
We now have bowls with insets available - made to order, see here
![Picture](/uploads/8/9/6/8/8968918/954252_orig.jpg)
This is the first bowl we experimented with. a pattern of the inlay was created (by setting the bowl upside down on a piece of paper and drawing round it initially). Then a piece of black clay was rolled out and cut to size to fit into the inlay. This was texturised with the texture plate created here
![Picture](/uploads/8/9/6/8/8968918/6052227.jpg?259)
The clay was cured partly by using a heat gun. This until the clay was sufficiently cured to be able to take it out of the bowl in one (or two pieces). Do remember to put a mark underneath the inset on the bowl and another on the clay so you know exactly where to return it to when cured. Then cure for at least 30 minutes
![Picture](/uploads/8/9/6/8/8968918/136212.jpg?238)
Inset the clay into the bowl putting only a few dabs of glue onto the bowl (do not cover the inset with glue as the wood needs to 'move'. We then put a finger full of old silver inka gold over the texture to create a highlight. Finally, this bowl was varnished with acrylic varnish (do not use regular wood varnishes as they may react with the clay)
However - Sue Corrie has done things differently:
However - Sue Corrie has done things differently:
Sue Corrie says:
I was quite pleased with the bowls. The metallic paint (Inka Gold) looks much better in real life than in the photos. I was very worried that the oak bowls would split with the heat of the oven, and they did a little, but it was only obvious from underneath (see last 2 photos). The beech ones were fine.
I tried doing a chrysanthemum cane insert in one bowl first, but I found it hard work, and I didn't like the look of it as much, so I took it out. I was always concerned that the bowls might dry out and crack. I coated the insert groove with a couple of thin layers of pva glue, then I sealed the oak bowls with dilute Inka Gold. I also rubbed a thin layer of renaissance wax into all of the bowls (after I put the clay on) in the hope that it would slow down any evaporation. I don't really know if any of that was necessary.
When I cured the first one the clay lifted and cracked in places, but I weighted it down with a pile of books, and by the time it cooled it was stuck firm and you couldn't tell there had been a problem. I thought it might be caused by moisture still evaporating from the wood, so I pierced the clay on the others with a fine beading needle every 1/4 inch or so. I didn't have any more problems after that
I tried doing a chrysanthemum cane insert in one bowl first, but I found it hard work, and I didn't like the look of it as much, so I took it out. I was always concerned that the bowls might dry out and crack. I coated the insert groove with a couple of thin layers of pva glue, then I sealed the oak bowls with dilute Inka Gold. I also rubbed a thin layer of renaissance wax into all of the bowls (after I put the clay on) in the hope that it would slow down any evaporation. I don't really know if any of that was necessary.
When I cured the first one the clay lifted and cracked in places, but I weighted it down with a pile of books, and by the time it cooled it was stuck firm and you couldn't tell there had been a problem. I thought it might be caused by moisture still evaporating from the wood, so I pierced the clay on the others with a fine beading needle every 1/4 inch or so. I didn't have any more problems after that
Three more efforts, the middle one being a 10 cm pin dish for which it is easy to produce a pattern by placing the bowl onto a sheet of clay: